The tables below show both real world tested and untested (extrapolated) development times for ILFORD FP4 PLUS .. I don’t use filtered or distilled water for any of my developer solution; it’s all straight out of the tap. My stop bath and fixing chemicals are sometimes mixed with tap water and sometimes with bottled water – I use what’s
With proper storage, the film quality can last for years, but keep in mind that the longer you wait to develop the film, the greater the risk of color shifts, fading, or other forms of degradation. So, it's best to develop the film as soon as possible after use to ensure the best possible results.
You don’t need to use a stop bath when developing film. But using a stop bath is recommended because it immediately arrests development and protects the integrity of your fixer, which requires an acidic solution to function. However, there are fixers that don’t need a stop bath. For the most part, a stop bath is a necessary tool to have on
Expired HP5+. It’s quite easy to see the difference between the expired HP5 and Delta 400 results, as it almost feels like the grain of one is “white on black” while the other is black on white. Finer points of detailing on the Delta make t my preferred “high speed” expired option. I used Delta 400, expired in the 1980s, at EI200 to
The general rule is to overexpose by 1 stop for every decade the film has expired by. Most expired film is usable in come capacity, so it really depends whether or not you like the effects it gives your photos. In many cases images taken on expired film will feature prominent grain, low contrast and color shifts.
Once the film has been developed, either by a lab or by you, you can then decide who will scan it and how it will be scanned. You can use a scanner specifically made to scan film, you can use a flatbed scanner with a backlight attachment, or you can hire a commercial lab to scan it for you.
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how to develop expired film
